The BVIs - Virgin Gorda

You likely know we are water-babies and just can’t get enough of exploring every nook and cranny and hanging out – both on it and in it. And so, in six short days, we were swimmers, kite-board observers, (yes) hikers, snorkelers and (close to being) stand up paddle boarders. We started the week at the Bitter End Yacht Club (BEYC) – just a beautiful location with spectacular views. It looks rustic and it is. Here’s the main dock and hotel main entrance:


The BEYC is located on the northeast end of the island of Virgin Gorda. History says it was the last outpost for adventurous sailors before they headed out to the Atlantic. And you can only get there by boat or ferry (that includes the people who work there). On arrival, the BEYC promotes the following: eating, playing, sleeping and celebrating life - can't get much better than that, can you? You won’t find a marble reservation desk with bright neon lighting nor stuffy dress shops where you ask yourself “who wears this stuff?” Instead, you find captains, tourists, cruisers and bare-boaters alike who hail from all around the world and are there for the sailing, the kite-boarding, the gardens and just 'beaching it'.

What was originally a shore pub with five cottages, is now a high-end but low-key resort offering endless opportunities for relaxation and/or plenty of water sport activities. The same family (the Hokins) has owned the resort since the early 70’s – their parents sure must be proud of how pristine they have kept it. There are now way more than five cottages (most are one-story with verandas) but there are no high rises and no ‘villas’ as you would expect when you hear the word ‘high-end’. And no ‘dressing for dinner’ either! Vacationers are there in shorts and t-shirts and bathing suits – easy and relaxed.


As a business located on an island, keep in mind almost everything is brought in by boat and this makes everything there expensive. Bitter End still generates its own electricity, collects and makes its own water, uses solar power and relies on waste water to irrigate. There is a pub, dining room and pool side pub operation on the shoreline and the marina slips dot the beachfront – all with 50’+ boats. There are two small t-shirt shops with a wee bit of jewellery and an even smaller store offering provisions. The morning we left, all we needed was a loaf of bread, hamburger buns and a quart of milk – and we got these three things for a mere $19! I was sure glad we didn’t need Cheerios ($10) and I never even checked the prices for meat. Alas, that’s just what it costs to get blue and turquoise waters.

Jimmy and Amanda are big kite-boarders having taken up the sport over the past couple of years. John and I are big kite-boarder observers! And so we sat at the end of one of the BEYC docks under a thatched gazebo looking out onto the North and Eustatia Sounds – well-known for its windy days and great sailing weather. Jimmy said, “Amanda is the best girl out there!” Believe me, she is the ONLY girl out there! I’m not sure how they keep it all straight – all those wires, harnesses, the board and the kite itself to manage! And then there are the other kite-boarders scooting and crossing in front and behind you at remarkable speeds jumping 20 feet in the air as they make their turns! It is incredible to watch! I could watch for hours – and did.

Our hike inland was really a chance to explore. The trail from BEYC led us along the waterfront with all types of cactus plants on one side and lush, thick mangroves on the other. As we reached different heights on the island, we could look back on the North Sound and see the whiteness of the beaches and the waves breaking on the coral reefs.


We came along a long road under construction and I must say the progress seems pretty slow – we only saw three guys working on it so I suspect it’ll be a while yet before completion. Here’s an electrical spool we found on the way – trust you can see the road is not well developed:

We scooted in the tender to two very different places. Both are real close to the BEYC so we went there for cocktails and appies and then back to the boat for dinner. The first was Saba Rock and it’s just the coolest place with its own pool-type acquarium. I also got to eat the best conch I’ve ever had! The second was Jumpies at Leverick Bay and I had a beautiful glass of Merlot there. And having (in my early years) waited on tables and been a bartender, I LOVED the t-shirt worn by our Polish barmaid – the back said ”Tipping is not a town in China”! I don't have a photo of her t-shirt but here is a pic of the hotel that houses Jumpies:


After three days, we sailed back into the Sir Francis Drake Channel and moved west past Deadman’s Bay off Peter Island to a bay called Pirate’s Bite on Norman Island. From here we went snorkelling at the Indians and visited the forever infamous Willy T. These two places (within ½ mile of each other) deserve their own chapter so bye for now...

Y’all come back now, hear?

The Beautiful BVIs - Our Arrival

This was our second trip at the same time of year to this beautiful area of the Caribbean. I was pretty sure last year but, after our trip this time, I am almost convinced it’s as close to heaven as one can ever get.

Blue almost turquoise waters, snorkelling at its best, laid back approach to life, warm weather that is purrrrfect at 80-85 degrees, boats of all shapes and sizes everywhere you look and friendly islanders at every turn – these are all things that make it seem like heaven! It’ll take me a few chapters to share our experiences so this piece is just about “Our Arrival”.

The trip between Brownsville and Puerto Rico was essentially uneventful and that’s a good thing. My interest moved way up the scale though for the Cape Air flight to Beef Island, Tortola (45 minutes). Here’s a picture of the plane:


As you can see, it’s small. It was a full flight so that’s a grand total of 9 pax + pilot! The baggage handlers scoop everyone’s carry-on right at the aircraft and sort them into various compartments in both the nose and the wing. Only then do they assign seats and that’s based on your weight. How lucky was I to get the co-pilot’s seat! And a female pilot besides! So I propped myself up as best I could (just like a kid) and peered over the nose of the airplane – the best view in the house except for the pilot’s!

As we approached the airport at Tortola, we flew over the bay and I could see below all kinds of yachts and boats anchored – and one of them was waiting for us! The landing was quick and passage through Immigration and Customs easy. Jimmy and Amanda, John’s son and daughter-in-law, met us at the airport. We headed out towards the airport parking lot, then hung a quick left about 50’ and, imagine, we were already on the dock! We climbed into the tender and rode out to the boat. Cool, eh?

We had a quick tour – it’s a new boat for Jimmy and Amanda this year – and I might add all 62’ of this sailing vessel is VERY high-end! The boat is a catamaran so she’s 31’ wide and quite stable in the water. The fly bridge offers even additional space and the floors of both the bridge and stern decks are in teak and holly. All the cushions and most of the pillows are tailored in navy to match the hull – some pillows are in yellow to offer a sunny accent. The interior is a highly polished cherry-wood and the furniture leathered in white. She’s made by Sunreef Yachts in Poland with four cabins + a crew cabin. The tender is a centre-console, is 15’ long with a brand new 70 hp Yamaha outboard.




Here’s a photo that I took from the beach – trust you agree she’s a beauty...












That first night, we had a great steak dinner, recognized how lucky we were to be aboard this brand new yacht with Jimmy and Amanda for 6 more days and then suddenly realized we had just traveled for 15 solid hours! This combination sent us to our cabin not long after dinner. We woke up the next day well-rested - there’s just nothing like sleeping on a boat.

Here is the view of the bay from the fly bridge - almost looks concave.








Away we sailed out of view of the airport, Trellis Bay and into the Sir Francis Drake Channel, we passed the “Dogs” and then skimmed across the entrance (about 1’ deep) to Blunder Bay to the island of Virgin Gorda. Our destination was the Bitter End Yacht Club – about 4 hours in total by boat.

I’ll get back to you in a few days with a few stories about what we did when we reached Virgin Gorda, our snorkelling and hiking adventures and our subsequent return to the Willy T’s and Norman Island. I’ve got some good pictures so tune in when you get the chance… m.